Michael Portillo’s Travel Diaries: Exploring Milan in Style

Michael Portillo’s Travel Diaries are a delightful journey through some of Europe’s most fascinating cities. In this series, the former politician turned travel presenter immerses himself in local traditions, understanding the authentic food, culture and style of each destination.

His three-part Milan adventure offers viewers a taste of la dolce vita as he learns to dress like a Milanese, zips through the city on a vintage Lambretta and master's the art of Italian coffee culture, before exploring the city’s cultural legacy, from Mussolini’s imposing architecture to the works of Leonardo da Vinci.

Arch of Peace, or Arco della Pace, city gate in the centre of the Old Town of Milan in the sunny day, Lombardia, Italy.

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A Taste of Milan

In his travels through Milan, Michael explores the city’s rich food culture, learning the art of Italian coffee-making, enjoying aperitivos and even trying his hand at bread-making.

Milan’s culinary scene is a mix of Italian tradition and innovation and like the rest of Italy, Milan takes its coffee making seriously. Italian coffee culture is a deeply ingrained aspect of daily life, characterised by strong espresso-based beverages, specific coffee-drinking times, and a social ritual around coffee breaks. A true Milanese starts their day with a quick caffé while stood at the bar – and they never have a cappuccino after 11am (milk is for mornings only.)

Just as coffee is a ritual, so is the aperitivo. This pre-dinner tradition has become an integral part of Milanese life. Typically enjoyed in the early evening, it’s not just about drinks – it's the entire experience. Locals gather at cafés or bars to sip cocktails like an Aperol Spritz or a Negroni, accompanied by a spread of light bites.

A Shopaholic’s Haven

Milan is a global fashion capital and Portillo embraces its stylish side, learning to dress like the locals. But how does a true Milanese navigate the city? On a 1960s Lambretta of course!

A key stop on Michael’s journey is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the world’s oldest active shopping arcade. With its stunning glass dome and mosaic floors, this 19th century arcade houses luxury boutiques, historic cafés and even a lucky tradition; spinning on the bull mosaic for good fortune.

Beyond the Galleria, Milan boasts several top shopping destinations. The Quadrilatero d’Oro, or ‘Golden Rectangle’ is the city’s luxury shopping district, where you’ll find everything from couture fashion houses to bespoke tailoring. For those seeking something a little different the Navigli district offers a mix of independent shops, vintage stores and artisanal products.

Milan’s Masterpieces

We follow Michel as he explores the city’s cultural side. He discovers original works by Leonardo da Vinci, explores Mussolini era architecture and visits the iconic Duomo.

Milan has a deep connection to da Vinci, one of the region’s most influential artists and thinkers. His Last Supper located at Santa Maria delle Grazie, is perhaps one of the most famous pieces in the city and a must-see for art lovers. Additionally, you can explore the Sforza Castle, which houses frescoes by Da Vinci in the Sala delle Asse. The Pinacoteca Ambrosiana also features pages from Da Vinci's Codex Atlanticus.

Milan is also home to some significant architecture from the Fascist period, a stark contrast from the city’s older, more ornate structures. A style known as Italian Rationalism, these monumental buildings were designed to evoke feelings of power. Some of the most notable examples include Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana and the modernist structures in the CityLife district.

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